Welcome to Andrew Fixes

The aim of this site is to inspire you to fix things and show you how to do it.

I love repairing, building and improving mechanical and electronic things. With this website and the Andrew Fixes YouTube channel I’ll share some of my repairs with you and hopefully inspire you to have a go yourself. Or at least help you to be better informed when arranging repairs by a 3rd party.

You’ll find cars, motorcycles, bicycles and tricycles on here, along with garden equipment, tools, home electronics and remote controlled toys.

Most of the articles are categorised by the type of item being repaired, but there are also some ‘general principles’ articles in their own section. Thanks for stopping by and I hope you find something interesting here.

Cars

This is the largest category! As well as looking after my own cars and several cars for other family members, I also import cars from Japan. These sometimes require servicing or small repairs before sale. There will be electric hybrid vehicles in here as well as petrol and diesel power.

Nissan Leaf 6.6 kW charger

Picture showing the charge time display on a ZE0 Nissan Leaf with the optional 6.6 charger
Explaining the difference between Nissan Leaf 6.6 and 3.6 chargers, including why it matters and working out which you have.

Garden Equipment

My interest in engines started with lawnmowers, so it’s no surprise that they still feature in my fixing repertoire.

Home electronics

What do I mean by home electronics? Computers, washing machines and dishwashers are the main contenders.

Video

This whole thing started as a YouTube channel and it’s still going strong! In fact, for brand new content, the YouTube channel is ahead of this website. Here is a selection of the most recent videos:

Showing you how I fixed the right rear indicator bulb fault warning on a 2009 Audi A3. This was a frustrating intermittent fault and was not due to a problem with the bulb at all. In the video I go through how to remove the rear light cluster. Visual inspection revealed that the earth / negative /ground pin for the light cluster had been getting hot and had melted the plastic around both male and female sides of the connection. Having identified the problem I go on to fix it using a replacement connector and bulb holder. I used solder sleeves to splice the new connector into place. This repair fixed the problem and it's been faultless for a few thousand miles now. Parts used Replacement wiring harness plug with wire tails https://ebay.us/5z1a1j Replacement bulb holder https://ebay.us/n9gLGI Solder sleeves https://ebay.us/lQLR1N Amalgamating tape https://amzn.to/3w25UpO Tools used Hot air gun https://amzn.to/3kgB5ez Wire strippers https://amzn.to/3Xv720L 13 mm socket, short extension, 1/4" drive ratchet. Mine were from Halfords years ago but if I was buying now from scratch and I could afford it, I'd go for a Wera set https://amzn.to/3COsuWE Sections 0:00 Introduction 2:07 Removing the light cluster 3:54 Checking for damage 6:00 Replacement parts 7:02 Fitting replacement bulb holder 9:34 Replacement wiring harness plug 15:43 Refitting light cluster 17:01 Testing the repair 18:25 Summary and ending I hope this helped you fix your car, or understand what might be wrong with it. Thanks very much for watching and please consider subscribing if you haven't already. andrewfixes.com
Audi A3 rear indicator bulb fault | Fixing it with a new bulb holder and wiring harness connector
This Suzuki Carry kei truck wouldn't go into 1st gear, so I decided it needed a new clutch. This video shows you the clutch replacement process. Before embarking on clutch replacement I checked that the problem couldn't be resolved by adjusting the clutch cable. Unfortunately for me, it couldn't! I started by raising the truck up nice and high, so there was plenty of space for me and the transmission jack underneath. Next it was time to disconnect the battery, prop shafts, electrical connections and control cables. I removed the starter motor and then removed the gearbox. With the clutch removed, there wasn't one obvious catastrophic failure, but the pressure plate, friction disc and release bearing were clearly all past their best. Here is a link to the Luk clutch failure analysis guide I mentioned in the video: https://www.partinfo.co.uk/files/LUK%20Clutch%20Fault%20Finder.pdf I fitted a new Aisin 3 piece clutch kit (you can contact me here https://andrewsjapanesecars.com/ask-me-a-question/japanese-import-car-parts/ if you need parts for your Suzuki Carry) and then put it all back together. I'm pleased to report the new clutch fixed the not shifting into 1st gear issue and transformed the driving experience! Sections 0:00 Introduction 4:35 Disconnecting the battery 4:41 Draining the gearbox oil 6:09 Disconnecting front and rear prop shafts 9:01 Removing starter motor 9:48 Sensor cables 11:13 Shift control cables 15:07 Clutch cable 15:52 Removing the gearbox 18:29 Removing old clutch 19:51 Removing release bearing 21:03 Clutch failure analysis 23:39 Fitting new release bearing 26:37 Fitting new clutch 36:03 Clutch cable fitting and adjustment 36:41 New gear oil 37:11 Summary #suzukicarry #clutch #keitruck andrewfixes.com andrewsjapanesecars.com
Suzuki Carry won't go into 1st gear | DA63T Suzuki Carry clutch replacement
Whilst working on the rear brakes I noticed the shock absorber dust covers were had slipped down and were offering absolutely no dust protection whatsoever. I didn't have time to fit new bump stops and covers so it was time to reach for the cable ties! This is a 2009 Audi A3 1.9 TDi, 8PA model code. It has covered about 185,000 miles. The chrome damper rods are exposed to all the muck thrown up by the rear tyres, so I wanted to get the dust covers back in place to protect them. After removing the wheel, I used 5 cable ties to secure the dust cover back in place. It's lasted over 1000 miles so far! #audia3 #ziptie #shockabsorber andrewfixes.com
Audi A3 rear shock absorber dust cover slipped – zip tie / cable tie fix!
This 2009 Audi A3 (8PA model code) had noisy rear wheel bearings, so I decided to change them. I also changed the rear brake discs and pads at the same time as they were ready for doing. Just for good measure the caliper on the side I chose to video was stuck, so it got a new brake caliper too! This car had covered 184,000 miles. I started by jacking the car up and supporting it with axle / jack stands. After that I removed the road wheel and unbolted the brake caliper from its slider pins. This enabled the brake pads and brake disc to be removed. The wheel bearing unit is held in place by a single bolt, which requires a M18 12 point / XZN / triple square bit. It's tight! With the new wheel bearing unit and brake disc fitted, the time came to retract the brake caliper piston to accommodate the new brake pads. The piston was stuck so it was time for a new caliper. It is possible to refurbish the existing caliper but I didn't have time for that on this occasion. I swapped the short brake line from the old to the new caliper and installed it on the car. Next it was time to bleed the air out of the new caliper and I used a pressure brake bleeder to help with this. Finally the new brake pads could be installed, then it was time to put everything back together and take it for a test drive. Success! Tools M18 triple square / 12 point driver. Long breaker bar T30 torx bit and driver 10, 13, 15 and 17 mm spanners / sockets 11 mm brake line spanner https://ebay.us/9m151l Pressure brake bleeder https://amzn.to/3nzUp3H Wire brushes https://amzn.to/34W8Zeg Jack and axle stands Parts Wheel bearing FAG 713 6109 60 Brake pads Textar 2355402 Brake discs Textar 92120903 Brake caliper Apec RCA235N Brake fluid Sections 0:00 Introduction 1:33 New parts 2:26 Noise from old bearing, wheel on 3:02 Wheel removal 4:03 Undoing brake caliper 6:06 Removing brake disc 7:01 Bearing noise with disc removed 7:24 Removing wheel bearing assembly 11:36 Fitting new wheel bearing assembly 17:28 Cleaning brake pad carrier 19:58 (Attempting to) retract caliper piston 22:22 Removing brake caliper 27:25 Fitting new brake caliper 36:18 Fitting new brake disc 37:50 Fitting new brake pads 41:09 Finishing up 41:58 Ending Link to download Audi manuals: https://erwin.audi.com/erwin/showHome.do #audia3 #brakes
Changing Audi A3 rear wheel bearing, brake discs, pads and caliper (8PA model code)
One of the first things I do after importing a car from Japan is to change the engine oil and filter. In this video I bring you along for the engine oil and filter change, air filter replacement and coolant check on a 2012 Honda N-Box Custom kei car recently imported from Japan. The car is a 2012 Honda N-Box Custom G L Package in premium gold purple metallic paint (JF1 model code). It has a 3 cylinder 658 cc petrol engine and had covered ~94,000 km. I started by warming the engine up and then draining the oil. Next I removed the oil filter, in this case a HAMP (Honda After Market Parts) filter. With the oil draining I moved on to replacing the air filter. This was made much more difficult by an aftermarket Mitsuba Arena 2 horn control unit, which had been fixed to one of the battery clamp hooks. I fitted new HAMP oil and air filters. For oil, I used Millers fully synthetic 0w20: https://ebay.us/AO2Zga The engine takes 2.6 litres of oil with a filter change. The last thing was to check that the coolant concentration was adequate to prevent freezing in the winter. I used a refractometer, which showed the coolant was fine down to -40 degrees Celsius. Refractometer: https://amzn.to/3PExOjJ You can read more about kei cars here: https://andrewsjapanesecars.com/kei-cars-small-cars-from-japan/ If you're looking for any parts for your Honda N-Box, please get in touch using this form: https://andrewsjapanesecars.com/ask-me-a-question/japanese-import-car-parts/ 0:00 Introduction 2:06 Draining the oil 4:52 Removing the oil filter 5:45 Air filter replacement 10:23 Coolant check using refractometer 11:14 Fitting new oil filter 12:41 Fresh engine oil 17:13 Closing comments #honda #kei #nbox #service
Honda N-Box Custom oil change, air filter replacement, coolant check
This Stiga Park 120 had a badly cracked / perished fuel hose and this video shows how I replaced it. I also changed the fuel filter at the same time. It was just the hose running between the back of the tank and the engine that was affected: the rest were fine. I chose to remove the tank for this job. Strictly speaking this isn't necessary but I found it gave easier access to the hose clip on the fuel tap. Also, this Stiga had been somewhat neglected recently so I wanted to clean the tank and drain any debris. If you've got one of these machines it would be well worth checking the state of your fuel hose - this one was quite bad. I used 6 mm internal diameter reinforced fuel hose and a genuine GGP filter. The original fuel hose clips were fine to reuse. This was a fairly straightforward repair and the Stiga feels a lot safer to use now I've dealt with the impending fuel leak! Sections 0:00 Introduction 1:41 New hose to fit 2:10 Disconnecting the hose & draining the tank 5:07 Removing the fuel tank 7:00 Inspecting the old hose 7:30 Removing the hose from the fuel tap 8:17 Fitting the new fuel hose 9:32 Changing the fuel filter 11:31 Refittig the fuel tank 12:19 Checking for leaks 13:51 Refitting the engine cover 14:28 Closing comments Thanks for watching! https://www.andrewfixes.com #stiga
Stiga Park120 fuel hose and filter replacement | Changing a cracked and perished fuel pipe
Here is my take on converting a Tonka dump truck to remote control. This is a four wheel drive and four wheel steer conversion, with a focus on functionality rather than aesthetics. My son was really keen on a RC dump truck so we embarked on a remote control conversion for this Tonka truck. This is a summary and description of the conversion process rather than a full step by step 'how to' guide. I hope you find it useful and inspiring if your considering a RC conversion of your own. Almost all of the conversion parts were from AliExpress: Flysky RC unit https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AsCYsf Motor https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_9v2suP Gearbox https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Ak0Xsj Axle https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_97TKfN Driveshafts https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A47uQj ESC https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AlT2nl Wheels https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AMQAJd Tyres https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AdpnhN Servo https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AVTTux Rod ends https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AXNJRZ M3 and M4 threaded rod, nuts, nyloc nuts, washers. Sections 0:00 Introduction 0:48 Parts used 1:19 Wheels & tyres 1:49 Axles 3:01 Gearbox & propshafts 4:06 Radio gear & electronics 5:22 Axle installation 10:28 Electronics & gearbox installation 13:57 Test drive 15:31 Closing remarks #tonka #rc Thanks for watching! andrewfixes.com
Tonka RC conversion | Tonka dump truck remote control conversion with 4WD and 4 wheel steering
The NiCd battery life in my old Makita 18v drill/driver finally annoyed me enough to do something about it! This video shows the adapter I bought to enable the more modern Makita 18v LXT lithium ion batteries to be used with older NiCd / NiMh tools like my 8391D cordless combi hammer drill driver. Here is a link to the adapter https://ebay.us/PSg6aJ After showing the adapter, I go on to give some suggestions on how to look after the Makita lithium ion batteries. I suspect that by using the adapter I am circumventing some of the usual features to look after the batteries, particularly stopping them from over-discharge. By this I mean that I think (although haven't managed to confirm it for certain) that the functionality to switch off the power when the battery voltage gets too low is within the tool rather than the battery itself. Later in the video I look at the battery voltages when each of the charge status indicator lights go out, to get an idea of when I should stop using the battery and recharge it. Thanks for watching! andrewfixes.com #makita #battery #adapter
Makita NiCad to Lithium conversion | Makita NiMh to Li ion adapter | Using LXT battery on NiCd tool
The axle click came back on this 2015 Nissan Leaf! Several of you asked in the comments to my last video on fixing this click if I'd fixed it for good or if it had come back. Well we all know the answer to that question now! Yes after about a year of click-free motoring, the Nissan Leaf axle click returned. This time I fixed it using the quicker method as advised in the service bulletin: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10199148-0001.pdf This is quite a short video, not a full 'how to.' If you want more detail, head over to my first video on fixing the Nissan Leaf clunking noise https://youtu.be/nqzLp3mvMzU Thanks for watching! andrewfixes.com #nissanleaf #clicking #repair
Fixing Nissan Leaf axle click AGAIN! | Nissan Leaf clunk noise part 2
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Bicycles

Cycling has been my main form of exercise since childhood, so being able to build and repair my own bicycles has been a useful skill!

3 wheels

I’ve done enough work on 3 wheeled vehicles for them to have their own category. There’s a mixture of human, engine and electric motor power in here.

Tool reviews

I can barely express in words how much I enjoy buying new tools! Here are my reviews of some of my purchases.

General principles

AKA “things I wish I’d known much earlier in my fixing career!” This section covers general topics that can apply to a wide range of fixing situations.